Another Trip to Fes

I met my friend Jonathan in Fes this weekend and we had a wonderful time. We spent most of Saturday wandering and getting lost in the medina. Once we got beyond some of the touristy areas, it was surreal – narrow alleys, dead ends, people going about their daily lives. I read something interesting about Fes recently – few of the homes in the medina have first floor windows and if they do, they are usually covered. Its true and its because as the city was built, wealthy families lived beside poor families and without windows you wouldn't know who lived where. This concept hit home when Jonathan and I found ourselves lost and decided to follow signs for a tapestry cooperative.

It was a short walk and we quickly found ourselves in a beautiful building, but you wouldn't know it from the outside. There was a wooden sign hanging above a nondescript doorway, but once you entered, it was a whole new world. A docent/salesman introduced himself and told us about the home. It dates to the 14th century and was recently restored by UNESCO! It was obviously one of those wealthy families that built the house because the tile work and attention to detail was stunning. The tapestry cooperative is now housed there and one room had carpets seemingly stacked floor to ceiling.

When we regained our senses, the gentleman led us to the roof, which was literally breathtaking. We could see the entire medina spreading around us in all directions. Words truly can't describe how incredible it was – you'll have to look at the pictures. I was struck by the vastness and the thought of everything that happens in the medina – food markets, clothes markets, tanneries, people living, tourist attractions, mosques, and universities, much of it continuing as it has for centuries. The modern satellite dishes on almost every roof are a striking contrast to the centuries-old building they reside on.

Juice is big in Morocco – not just orange juice, which you can find just about anywhere, but avocado and almond “juice,” which is like a milk shake. Any kind of fruit or nut you can put in a blender can find its way into your juice. One of my personal favorites is avocado, almond and prune – don't laugh - the prunes add a nice sweetness. While walking in the medina, Jonathan mentioned finding a place to get juice and I immediately got visions of these “fancy” juices in my head. We did find a cafe with orange juice, but no other juices. I was a little disappointed, but couldn't shake the idea of a good juice.

We later found a medersa, which served as a dorm for poor, rural men studying at the mosques. There are several in Fes and I don't remember which one we visited, but it was stunning despite its less than well-preserved appearance. Medersas were built all over the Middle East beginning in the 1st century. The ones in Fes date to the 14th century and were used almost continuously until the 1950's.

We ate lunch at McDonald's and it was less than impressive. Unlike the U.S. where the golden arches are a cheap lunch, the cost was the equivalent of going to eat at a decent restaurant in Fes. Although the fries certainly tasted like McDonald's fries, it wasn't worth it.

On our way back to the hotel, we passed an ice cream and I poked my head in to see if they had juice. I was so happy to see a basket of avocados and other assorted fruits! I made Jonathan stop for a quick juice even though we had both just said how tired we were. It was wonderful!